Different varieties of sarees

Sarees are an essential and traditional part of India’s culture. Archaeological evidence states that the saree originated during the Indus Valley Civilisation, that is around 2800- 2000 BCE. There have even been mentions of the saree in the Rigveda, indicating its presence in Indian culture since the beginning. This traditional garment has evolved significantly, with changes in draping style, fabrics, designs and embroidery. Most of these evolutions happened during two significant times in India’s history: the Mughal era, which introduced luxurious fabrics and intricate designs in sarees, and the Colonial period, which influenced the saree designs as we know them today.

It is worn during several important events, such as weddings, festivals, and poojas, and symbolises purity, prosperity and the spirit of womanhood. There are many different varieties of sarees, each originating from different states of India, each carrying years of tradition within them. There are the Kanjeevaram silk sarees of Tamil Nadu, adorned with intricate silk threadwork and temple-inspired motifs. On the other hand, there are also the Phulkari sarees, a Punjabi variety that has vibrant floral embroidery.

But exactly how many types of sarees are there? The answer is that there are too many to count. In this blog, we are going to cover the different types of sarees in India.

Regional Varieties of Sarees

India has 29 states, and each of them is home to several types of traditional sarees, which are made with a variety of fabrics and have a diverse range of embroidery and embellishment. Read on to find out more about all of them!

North Indian Sarees:

•  Banarasi saree (Uttar Pradesh): Originating from Varanasi, the city of River Ganga, banarasi sarees are known for their rich silk fabric and intricate embroidery with Mughal influences. Adorned with gold and silver zari work, these sarees are perfect for weddings and special occasions.
• Phulkari saree (Punjab): The phulkari saree is the perfect representation of Punjab; with vibrant colours and pretty, hand-stitched floral patterns. Did you know that the name ‘Phulkari’ literally means ‘flower work?’
• Kashmiri Kani Sari (Jammu and Kashmir): This North Indian saree is made with a weaving technique called ‘Kani,’ which involves small wooden sticks. The patterns on these sarees usually depict natural sceneries and motifs of the area and are woven with silk or wool.

South Indian Sarees:

•   Kanjeevaram Sarees (Tamil Nadu): Kanjeevaram silk sarees are a staple at most Tamilian weddings, with everyone, from the bride to her mother wearing it for the occasion. These sarees have vibrant colours and intricate gold threadwork. Kanjeevaram sarees are known for their grandeur and durability.
• Mysore Silk Sarees (Karnataka): These sarees, known for their simple designs, and elegances, are made from pure silk. They have a smooth texture and are adorned with subtle gold zari borders, which means they can be worn for casual events as well as formal ones.
• Uppada saree (Andhra Pradesh): This is a famous Andhra silk saree type, handwoven with the Jamdani technique. These sarees feature beautiful designs and motifs and are highly renowned for their craftsmanship and elegance.

 East Indian Sarees:

• Sambalpuri Saree (Odisha): These sarees have unique tie and dye patterns, known as ‘Bandha.’ They have handwoven traditional motifs and are known for their vibrant colours.
• Baluchari Saree (West Bengal): The elaborate motifs on these sarees usually depict scenes and stories from Mythology. They are woven from silk and their contrasting colours, along with detailed patterns make them a work of art.
• Mekhela Chador (Assam): This saree, originating from the North Eastern state of Assam, consists of two pieces: the mekhela which is the top part of the saree, and the chador, or the bottom part. This saree typically has handwoven motifs depicting the local flora and fauna.

West Indian Sarees:

•   Paithani Sarees (Maharashtra): One of the most renowned types of sarees in Maharashtra, these sarees are made from luxurious silk, and have golden zari work. Motifs on the saree depict peacocks and flowers and are cherished for their vibrant colours.
• Bandhani Sarees (Gujarat): Bandhani sarees are known for their tie and dye patterns, which are created by tying small sections of the saree before dying them. This gives them their famous colourful varieties and patterns.
• Goan Kunbi Saree (Goa): Kunbi sarees are handwoven by the tribal women of Goa, and are known for being simple and comfortable. They are made from cotton and have bold checks and stripes.

Central Indian Sarees:

• Chanderi saree (Madhya Pradesh): Made from a blend of silk and cotton, these sarees are lightweight and elegant. They are known for their delicate patterns and sheer texture, making them perfect for casual and formal events.
• Maheshwari Saree (Madhya Pradesh): Also made from blended silk and cotton fabrics, this saree has distinctive stripes, florals and check patterns. They also have lightweight and sophisticated designs.

Unique Weaving Technique and Motifs in Indian Sarees

Weaving techniques:

• Banarasi weaving: Originating in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, this technique involves brocade work using gold and solver threads with supplementary weft patterns. What makes it special is the rich zari work, meaning they are ideal for weddings and special occasions.
• Kanjeevaram Weaving: From Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, weavers use pure mulberry silk and real gold to weave the saree, making this saree heavy and durable, yet vibrant and beautiful with temple inspired motifs on the border.
• Patola Weaving: Originating from Patan, Gujarat, Patola sarees are woven with the double ikat technique, with the cloth being tie-dyed before using warp and weft to weave. This gives the saree vibrant colours and geometric patterns, making it a status symbol.
• Jamdani Weaving: From Bengal, this technique uses weft weaving and small shuttles to add patterns. The fabric is light with delicate motifs, usually floral or paisley.
• Chanderi Weaving: The state of Madhya Pradesh is home to this weaving technique. Chanderi sarees are woven with a silk and cotton blend, with intricate zari work. It makes the saree lightweight and glossy, ideal for all events. 

Motifs:

• Floral Motifs:
  o   Common Regions: Banaras, Kanjeevaram and Chanderi sarees.
  o   Significance: Beauty, nature and fertility.

• Geometric Patterns:
  o   Common Regions: Patola and Pochampally sarees.
  o   Significance: Symmetry, balance and the cosmic order.

• Animal and Birds:
  o   Common Regions: Kalamkari, Madhubani, Tussar sarees.
  o   Significance: Stories from mythology and folklore.

• Temple Borders:
  o   Common Regions: Kanjeevaram 
  o   Significance: The architecture of South Indian temples, also symbolises spirituality and protection.

• Paisley Patterns:
  o   Common Regions: Bandhani and Banarasi sarees
  o   Significance: Fertility and growth, used in wedding sarees and for festivals.

Interactive Element: The Virtual Draping saree tool.

This tool allows users to visualise how the saree will look when draped on their body and offers a variety of draping styles from different regions of India for an interactive shopping experience. Some key features include:

• 3D Body Scanning: This helps create a personalised avatar based on the user’s body measurements. It is beneficial as it gives accurate representation and allows users to see how different sarees will fit unique body shapes.

• Regional draping styles: Includes styles such as Nivi, Bengali, Gujarati, Maharashtrian and more, helping users understand the cultural significance and visual differences of draping styles from various regions.

  • Colour and Pattern customisation: This allows users to customise colours, patterns and the design of the saree to see how different combos will appear together. This enhances the user’s creativity and helps in making personalised choices.
  • 360-degree view: This technology offers a 360-degree view of the drape saree, allowing the users to see it from all angles. It helps to ensure a thorough examination of the saree’s fit and appearance.

  This interactive technology has various benefits, such as an enhanced shopping experience, cultural education, convenience and accessibility, reduced return rates and increased use of sustainable fashion. It can also be integrated and implemented in various ways:

  • E-Commerce: Integrating it onto e-commerce platforms will make this technology easily accessible to all.
  • Instore: Building kiosks in saree stores will help customers get on-spot visualisation of the saree they want to buy.
  • Mobile app: An app version is helpful for on-the-go convenience.
    

Different Types of Sarees by Fabric

Silk Sarees:

• Types of Silk:

o   Mulberry silk: Has a soft and rich texture
o   Tussar silk: Has a rich texture with a golden sheen.
o   Eri Silk: It is durable and has a unique texture. They are also considered eco-friendly.
o   Muga Silk: Originating from Assam, this silk is durable and has a natural golden colour.

• Andhra Silk saree types:

o   Pochampally: This saree has beautiful Ikat designs.
o   Gadwal: This saree is unique as it has a cotton body and silk pallu with rich zari work.

Silk sarees are special in their way; they give a luxurious feel, and a natural sheen and are durable.

Cotton Sarees:

• Types of Cotton:
  o   Tant: This cotton is light and comfortable and popular in Bengal.
  o   Khadi: Handwoven, this fabric is symbolic of India’s freedom movement.
  o   Kanjeevaram cotton: This fabric is elegant and comfortable.

Using cotton in sarees makes them breathable, comfortable and suitable for daily wear and summer.

Wool Sarees:

• Types of wool:
  o   Pashmina Wool: Soft, lightweight and warm, it is also known for its luxurious feel and fine quality.
  o   Merino Wool: Soft, fine and breathable, it also has excellent insulation properties. It is also less itchy.
  o   Angora Wool: It is extremely fluffy, soft and lightweight, but still has a silky texture.

Wool in sarees is a very smart choice for winter weddings and other events in cold weather, as they provide warmth, and softness, making them incredibly comfortable to wear.

Blended fabrics:

• Silk-cotton blends: These blends combine the richness of silk along with the comfort of cotton, making sarees made with this fabric ideal to wear for a long time.
  Blended fabrics give sarees a rich texture and make them more affordable. Additionally, they offer a sense of comfort and elegance.
• Sustainable and Ethical Fashion:With the world adopting more sustainable practices, saree designers are using eco-friendly methods to make and design these garments:

Materials:

• Organic Cotton: Grown without chemical pesticides, this practice ensures that the soil is healthy and reduces water consumption. It is soft on the skin, bio-degradable, and supports a healthier ecosystem.
• Peace silk: This silk is cultivated without harming the silkworms, allowing them to complete their lifespan. They follow an ethical production process to give softer and cruelty-free silk.
• Bamboo Silk: Made from bamboo fibres that are processed into a silk-like fabric, it is biodegradable, needs less water and has natural antibacterial properties.
• Hemp and Linen: This material is derived from plants that need minimal water and don’t use any pesticides to aid growth. Benefits include durability and breathability.

Sustainable Dyeing:

• Natural dyes: These dyes are derived from plants and minerals. Examples include indigo, turmeric and madder root. They are non-toxic, biodegradable and safe for the environment.
• Azo-free dyes: These are synthetic dyes with no harmful chemicals. They have a lower environmental impact, are safe for the skin and comply with the International Safety Standards.
• Waterless Dyeing: This involves air techniques to dye sarees and other garments, thus eliminating the need for water. It helps reduce pollution and energy consumption.

Methods to reduce environmental impact:

• Waste Minimisation by using scarps for accessories, upcycling old sarees and implementing zero waste patterns.
• Energy Efficiency by using solar-powered looms, energy efficient machinery and reducing transportation emissions.
• Recycled paper, biodegradable plastic, and plant-based packaging materials.

Different types of Saree Prints

Block Printed sarees: This technique involves carving designs onto wooden blocks, dipping them into dye and stamping them onto the fabric. Multiple blocks are used for different colours and patterns, and this printing method is done on cotton and silk with either natural or synthetic dyes

Characteristics:
o   Each saree is unique due to the manual process.
o   Designs include floral motifs, geometric patterns and traditional symbols.
o   Colours on the designs are long-lasting and intricate.

Digital prints: A more modern technique to print complex designs directly onto the fabric. It allows for high precision and a vibrant colour application. It is used across silk, cotton, chiffon and georgette.

Characteristics:
o   It can be used on endless types of designs, making it versatile.
o   Since it is faster than traditional printing methods, it is efficient.
o   Digital printing allows for some very fine detailing and colour gradients.
o   Colours on the designs are long-lasting and intricate.

Hand-painted sarees: Artisans hand-paint the designs onto fabric using brushes and natural dyes. This makes each saree a unique piece of art. It is commonly done on silk and cotton fabrics.

Characteristics:
o   Each saree is a canvas for the artisan where they express their artistic talent.
o   No two hand-painted sarees are the same; hand-painting makes each saree unique and exclusive.
o   The perfect combination of tradition and modernity, it incorporates traditional motifs and contemporary art.

Regional Print Varieties:

• Ajrakh: This is a complex block printing technique that involves multiple stages of dyeing and resist printing. Natural dyes including Indigo and madder are used. Most common designs are symmetrical and geometrical patterns, with stars and florals.

It is a traditional craft of the Khatri Community of Gujarat and Rajasthan. It holds great cultural significance for Sindhis and is worn during festivals.

• Kalamkari: Originating from Andhra Pradesh, this involves freehand drawing with a kalam or a pen, and then filling the designs with natural dyes. There are two styles: Srikalahasti, which is hand-painting, and Machilipatnam, or block printing. Common themes are mythological stories, floral patterns and intricate detailing.

The art on Kalamkari prints is detailed and expressive. The dyes are also derived from plants, roots and minerals. Kalamkari is also very versatile: it can be done on sarees, wall hangings and other textiles.

• Bagru: This is a traditional block printing from Rajasthan done with natural dyes. The cloth is soaked in fuller’s earth (multani mitti) and turmeric for an off-white background. Themes include floral motifs and patterns, and geometric shapes.

It gives the cloth earth tones, as natural dyes are used to produce warm colours such as indigo, red and black. Bagru is an age-old technique passed through generations and its natural dyes make it an environmentally friendly practice.

Modern Varieties and Trends

Have you ever wondered, ‘Which type of sarees are in fashion?’ Current fashion trends are exploring contemporary designs and innovative fabrics; traditional silk and handloom sarees are gaining more popularity among the new generations. Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, Tussar, Chanderi and Maheshwari sarees are popular for their timeless elegance and are often seen in weddings and festivals with a preference for vibrant colours and zari work.

New-age sarees made from materials such as georgette, chiffon, linen and net have become more popular among young professional ladies. They are lightweight, comfortable, easy to drape and often heavily embellished. This makes them perfect for casual events, summer weddings and wedding receptions.

Innovations in saree designs:

The two most popular innovations in sarees that are being increasingly adopted by a new generation of saree-wearers are:

• Pre-stitched and ready-to-wear sarees: Sarees with pre-stitched pleats and attached blouses make it convenient to wear, which is why more young girls and professionals are adopting them for daily wear.
• Concept Sarees: Blending elements such as capes and jackets add a modern twist to the traditional saree.

Fusion in Sarees:

• Saree Gowns: Gowns with a saree draped into the design make it popular for red carpet events and weddings.
• Pant Sarees: The ever-popular combination of sarees and trousers or leggings make for a contemporary look and allow for mobility.
• Capes and Jackets: Sarees are often paired with capes and jackets instead of blouses. This gives a modern twist and extra layer of style and makes it suitable for festive and formal occasions.
• Layered Sarees: Multiple layers of fabric and drapes create a voluminous effect, for a dramatic and avant-garde look.

Celebrity Influences:

• Red carpet influence: Indian actresses have worn sarees at international events, setting a new trend and creating demands for the designs.
• Social media influence: Celebrities who share their saree looks on Instagram and Twitter inspire fans and followers, and their viral posts drive trends. This leads to rising sales and popularity of specific styles and designers.
• Bollywood Films: Iconic saree looks by actresses in movies set long-lasting trends. Examples include Sridevi’s iconic look from Chandni, and Alia Bhatt’s look from Rocky aur Rani kii Prem Kahaani. These films also show regional sarees and innovative designs.

Styling and Draping Techniques

With each region of India, there comes a different way of draping the saree:

• Nivi: This is the most common style, with pleats in the front and the pallu at the back. It originated from Andhra Pradesh.
• Bengali: This draping style is done with pleats in the front and the pallu thrown over the shoulder. Very popular among Bengali women, especially during the Durga Puja.
• Gujarati: This style is different: the pallu comes from the back and is spread across the front.
• Maharashtrian: This draping style resembles the dhoti: with pleats both at the back and front and the pally across the chest to the back.

Accessories for various occasions:

• Traditional occasions:
  o   Events such as weddings and poojas call for heavy jewellery sets: Kundan earrings and necklaces, jhumkas, maang tikas and for a regal touch, a kamarbandh or a belt.
  o   Footwear includes Juttis and mojaris to complete the traditional look.
  o   A bindi does the trick to tie the whole look together

• Modern Occasions:
  o   In case of a formal event, keep your accessories small and simple; pearl necklaces, small studs, and delicate bracelets will do the trick.
  o   For casual outings, lightweight and fun accessories such as colourful bangles and hoop earrings are the best.
  o   Go for stylish heels or ballet flats for your feet, depending on the event.
  o   And finally, seal the deal with a cute bag.

Festive and Bridal Collections

There are several Indian saree varieties, but when it comes to weddings and festivals, one must keep in mind many factors before choosing the right one. Here is a comprehensive guide on what fabrics, colours, designs and draping styles you, as the bride can choose from!

Fabric:

• Silk: Silk sarees give a luxurious feel and rich texture. Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, and Tussar are very popular among brides in India.
• Chiffon and Georgette: These are the perfect combination of modern and traditional. They are the ideal choice for pre-wedding ceremonies as they are easy to drape.
• Velvet: These are perfect for a regal look, and ideal for evening events and winter weddings.
• Net: Sheer and heavily embellished, they are perfect for receptions.

Colours:

• Traditional red and maroon: These colours have been worn by brides for years; they signify prosperity and marital bliss.
• Pastel and light shades: All the rage among modern brides, these colours allow for a more minimalistic and simpler look. They are also ideal for pre-wedding events and festivals.
• Bold and Vibrant colours: Colours such as blue and red make this a great choice for festivals.

Designs:

• Zari: Gold work on the borders of sarees gives a luxurious and opulent look to the attire. Zari is mostly seen in Kanjeevaram and Banarasi sarees.
• Embroidery: Intricate embroidery that often depicts traditional motifs is very popular during weddings and festivals.
• Sequins and Beads: A touch of sparkle and glamour make these sarees perfect for evening events.
• Hand-painted and block prints: Unique and artistic, this is a popular choice for festivals:

Drape:

• Classic: The classic draping style is ideal if you want to maintain a traditional, timeless look.
• Modern: Modern draping styles like the pant drape make for a great contemporary twist to the attire.
• Regional: Styles from Maharashtra, Gujarat and Bengal can add a unique cultural twist to your look.

Virtual try-on tool for brides:

This tool allows the bride to virtually try on different sarees. It features a 3D avatar creator, fabric simulation for the bride to get a feel of the saree material, design customisations according to their preferences, and the chance to look at various draping styles. It is beneficial as it is convenient, allows for personalisation and gives a boost of confidence.

Care and Maintenance

While these sarees are beautiful and make the wearer feel like royalty, it is important to maintain them to ensure that the beauty and timelessness of the saree remain. Here are some storage, washing and stain removal techniques that cater to all the different varieties of sarees

• Silk:It is important that you only dry clean all your silk sarees to prevent damage to the delicate fibres and embellishments. Store them in a cool, dry place and wrap them in a muslin cloth. Use low heat settings while ironing and place a cloth in between to avoid direct heat.
• Cotton:Handwash cotton sarees in cold water using a mild detergent. Fold them neatly and store them in a dry place. Avoid hanging as it can stretch the saree. Iron on medium heat while the saree is damp for best results.
• Chiffon and Georgette: Handwash with a mild detergent or dry clean these types of sarees. Roll them to prevent creases. Iron them on low heat or steam if necessary.
• Net Sarees: These are strictly dry clean only; store them flat or rolled to avoid creases and damage to the net. Avoid directly ironing and use steam from a distance.
• Linen Sarees: Handwash or machine wash on a gentle cycle with cold water. Avoid harsh detergents. Iron on high heat and steam for a crisp finish.

• Storage tips:

  • Avoid humidity and plastic bags to prevent mould build-ups. Using cloth bags for sarees allows for proper air circulation
  • Place acid-free tissues between the saree’s folds to prevent creases and protect fabrics.
  • Rotate and refold frequently to avoid permanent creasing on the saree.

• Stain Removal:

  • Oil Stains: Sprinkle talcum powder or corn starch to absorb oil. Brush off gently and wash.
  • Ink Stains: Dab a cotton ball soaked in alcohol, rinse with cold water and a mild detergent.
  • Food stains: Rinse immediately with cold water, apply a mild detergent and gently rub the stained area.
  • Wine stains: Sprinkle salt to absorb moisture. Rinse with cold water and wash with a mild detergent.

Conclusion

Sarees are a timeless piece of attire. There are innumerable varieties of sarees in India, each with its own style, culture and design. They have different types of saree fabrics and prints.

Some are fashionable and popular among the new generation of girls, while others are traditional and all the rage for their age-old uniqueness. No matter how many types of sarees there are, Suvidha Fashions has them all. Explore a wide range of Indian sarees, from silk to cotton, to linen and velvet!

Everybody has their preferences: choose the colours and saree that suit you and make you feel beautiful; Suvidha Fashions is always here to help you make the right choice.